You can either smooth out the lines of the pattern on the pattern that you have glued / taped, or re-trace on a fresh piece of pattern paper. 18cm added to the sleeve cap using cut & spread technique on 16 April 2020)Р”Р„nd you're ready to use your new sleeve pattern! I'd suggest making a toileР’В to check you are happy, before cutting your garment. I also like to add notes of the changes I made (e.g. The amount will depend on your hem treatment - for example, if you are adding a cuff, rolling the hem, or creating a hem facing.Р”Р„dd pattern details to the new pattern piece. FINALISE PATTERN + ADD PATTERN MARKINGSР”Р„dd seam allowanceР’В to the hem of the pattern. Check notch placementР”В¬heck the placement of the notches by walking your sleeve piece into the front and back armhole of your pattern (starting at the underseam of the sleeve and side seam). For the new sleeve cap, draw a line of best fit through the original stitch line, before adding seam allowance.Р”В«e sure to also transfer the notches (you won't know exactly where they should be at this point, just mark them so you know which is the front and back of the sleeve)Р’В and grainline if you are tracing the pattern. Draw the new hemline by drawing a smooth curve that follows the hem sections of the original sleeve. Use a French curve ruler, or even a straight ruler (that is my preference for drawing curves) to work your way around the pattern. When tracing the new pattern piece, you need to make sure all lines are nice and smooth.

Sometimes it is good to use the original, as then you can keep track of the changes you made to the patternР’В - but this is up to you. You can either smooth out the lines of the pattern on the original pattern that you have glued / taped, or re-trace on a fresh piece of pattern paper. Tape / glue pattern in place to the piece of pattern paper underneath. I divided thisР’В 18cm by the number of slash lines (6) and therefore opened up each slash line by 3cm. For example, in the sleeve pictured, I added 18cm to the sleeve cap. If you have found an exact amount that you would like to add to the pattern, you will need to divide this figure by the number of cuts you have made. To check this, measure out a strip of fabric before and after gathering to work out the ratio of fabric to gathers. For a heavier weight fabric, you will require less fabric to achieve a gathered sleeve. For example, if using something very lightweight like a silk chiffon, you will need to add quite a lot of width to the sleeve cap to create a gathered sleeve cap. You may want to have a play with a scrap of the fabric you are planning to use to see how it gathers. You may want to do this by eye (just cut along the line and then spread until it looks as though enough volume has been added), or by an exact amount. Think about how much volume you would like toР’В add to the pattern piece overall. With your grainline in the centre (and keeping this section of the pattern straight), gradually start spreading each section of the cut pattern - opening each cut line by a consistent amount.

Add fullness tukacad